Ahhh, Antigua
7:01 AM
Antigua is in many ways a tale of two personalities. The cozy island in the West Indies, named “ancient” by Christopher Columbus, is a throwback in time for sure, but geared to cater to the savvy traveler. This kitschy city invites explorers to discover its labyrinth of crisscrossed streets and narrow alleyways on the one hand, and seemingly endless beaches on the other.
According to local lore, Antigua (pronounced An-TEE-gah) boasts an amazing 365 beaches, all minutes from St. John’s, the bustling capital and offshore financial center. For the most part, St. John’s looks like what you’d expect from an island city of considerable commerce. With a population of 31,000 year-round residents, its colorful sun-washed wooden shops and businesses line the clean, narrow streets.
Some of the buildings are refurbished and well-kept but most are faded and old. Businesses with their dobber down are interspersed with newer construction, which is built predominantly with hurricane-strength concrete and designed more with an eye for function than aesthetics. With few exceptions, no building is taller than the Royal Palm trees that dress the island in its proper attire.
If you’re arriving by boat, step right into the heart of town with little or no red tape to impede your travels. Cruise ships enter the port daily, with tourist deliveries scheduled each Thursday and Friday when the town simply overflows. What’s a tropical city without vendors? You can’t avoid the cacophony of friendly merchants who are usually not too aggressive.
Take the time on your first day to absorb local color, shop for duty-free goods at Heritage Quay, browse the boutiques at Redcliffe Quay for clothing made from sea cotton. Then, try your luck at King’s Casino or sample a West Indian meal from Hemingway’s veranda on lower St. Mary’s Street. It overlooks the spectacular harbor. Afterward, play ”boats, bikes or automobiles” and head for a day at the beach. Any beach will do!
Parking is almost non-existent since Prime Minister Lester Bird offered a duty-free concession of one car per Antiguan. But taxis proliferate and the drivers hustle. Don’t worry about finding them, they’ll find you. As far as capital cities go, St. John’s is eminently walkable. It is possible to walk the entire town, from the waterfront south to the National Cricket Stadium just outside the city, in about ten minutes.
Downtown is only about 15 minutes by taxi from V.C. Bird International Airport, a former American military base. Unlike some of her more upscale neighboring islands (St. Barth’s comes to mind), there is little about Antigua that is terribly sophisticated. Yet, the island possesses a certain authenticity, luring visitors back for more year after year.
Beyond St. John’s, a different tropical world reveals itself on this 108 square mile sparkle in the Caribbean’s eye—namely the areas of Falmouth Harbour and English Harbour. To get there, head diagonally from St. John’s southeast toward the coast for about forty minutes. There’s never much traffic, but the roads are narrow and covered with potholes, perhaps the sole reminder of the snowy, northern city so many visitors have escaped on their excursions here.
Keep an eye out for posted signs advertising restaurants in the harbor area. These signs are useful guides, as few roads are named or marked in Antigua. Remember to drive on the left! When the roads improve and begin pitching uphill, the harbors are near. Stop to take in the epic vista below, and bring a long lens to capture some of great photos of your boat if she brought you here.
Falmouth and English Harbours are home to some of the world’s most famous classic yachts in the winter months. After all, these twin harbors are the staging grounds of one of the world’s most prestigious yachting events, Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta held this year April 16-21, 2009. It’s impossible to lose your way here; the two harborfront areas have only one primary street between them.
In Falmouth, walk the docks to admire the yachts, check out the Antigua Yacht Club and grab lunch. Past Falmouth, the road ends abruptly at historic Nelson’s Dockyard, which fringes English Harbour. Dating back to the 18th century, this piece of living history is the world’s only fully preserved Georgian Naval dockyard. Many buildings here are open to the public for self-or guided tours, including two small inns, a museum, the Galley Bar and the Galley Boutique, restaurants, a tiny bakery (behind the museum), post office and more.
A stop at A&F Sails will connect you to the sea again and is a good opportunity to peek at Franklin and his team of sail makers at work. Nearby is the Antigua base for Sun Yacht Charters and many other yacht related businesses catering to skippers of all strata. Many yachts call these harbors home, but most are passing through on a seasonal basis.
Shirley Heights, rising above the harbor area to the east, will treat you to one of the most panoramic views extant. Look for the ruins of a British fortress, and be sure to spot Montserrat and the legendary Soufriere volcano 30 miles south. Savor the view over lunch or a refreshing beverage in the small restaurant. If you’re lucky enough to be visiting at sunset on a Thursday or Sunday evening, stay for the party!
It’s an Antiguan tradition to celebrate sunset with a jammin’ reggae and rum barbeque. Another signifi cant area you won’t want to miss is the Dickenson Bay stretch just north of town. The seas here are glassy and framed by powdery white beaches, providing an idyllic setting for several sprawling resorts including Sandals.
Residents of Antigua generally avoid this area, as it has become a tourist mecca. But, in all fairness, the beaches there are fabulous and can tire you out with all the available water sports. A romantic little open-air restaurant, Coconut Grove, rests on the beach. You’ll want to stop here, even if it’s only for a tropical sip, or three.
You’ll have the sense that time stands still in Antigua. What you will take home with you is a sense of appreciation for a simpler life, splashed with more than a little natural beauty. Antigua is a place where there’s always time to smell the roses.
According to local lore, Antigua (pronounced An-TEE-gah) boasts an amazing 365 beaches, all minutes from St. John’s, the bustling capital and offshore financial center. For the most part, St. John’s looks like what you’d expect from an island city of considerable commerce. With a population of 31,000 year-round residents, its colorful sun-washed wooden shops and businesses line the clean, narrow streets.
Some of the buildings are refurbished and well-kept but most are faded and old. Businesses with their dobber down are interspersed with newer construction, which is built predominantly with hurricane-strength concrete and designed more with an eye for function than aesthetics. With few exceptions, no building is taller than the Royal Palm trees that dress the island in its proper attire.
If you’re arriving by boat, step right into the heart of town with little or no red tape to impede your travels. Cruise ships enter the port daily, with tourist deliveries scheduled each Thursday and Friday when the town simply overflows. What’s a tropical city without vendors? You can’t avoid the cacophony of friendly merchants who are usually not too aggressive.
Take the time on your first day to absorb local color, shop for duty-free goods at Heritage Quay, browse the boutiques at Redcliffe Quay for clothing made from sea cotton. Then, try your luck at King’s Casino or sample a West Indian meal from Hemingway’s veranda on lower St. Mary’s Street. It overlooks the spectacular harbor. Afterward, play ”boats, bikes or automobiles” and head for a day at the beach. Any beach will do!
Parking is almost non-existent since Prime Minister Lester Bird offered a duty-free concession of one car per Antiguan. But taxis proliferate and the drivers hustle. Don’t worry about finding them, they’ll find you. As far as capital cities go, St. John’s is eminently walkable. It is possible to walk the entire town, from the waterfront south to the National Cricket Stadium just outside the city, in about ten minutes.
Downtown is only about 15 minutes by taxi from V.C. Bird International Airport, a former American military base. Unlike some of her more upscale neighboring islands (St. Barth’s comes to mind), there is little about Antigua that is terribly sophisticated. Yet, the island possesses a certain authenticity, luring visitors back for more year after year.
Beyond St. John’s, a different tropical world reveals itself on this 108 square mile sparkle in the Caribbean’s eye—namely the areas of Falmouth Harbour and English Harbour. To get there, head diagonally from St. John’s southeast toward the coast for about forty minutes. There’s never much traffic, but the roads are narrow and covered with potholes, perhaps the sole reminder of the snowy, northern city so many visitors have escaped on their excursions here.
Keep an eye out for posted signs advertising restaurants in the harbor area. These signs are useful guides, as few roads are named or marked in Antigua. Remember to drive on the left! When the roads improve and begin pitching uphill, the harbors are near. Stop to take in the epic vista below, and bring a long lens to capture some of great photos of your boat if she brought you here.
Falmouth and English Harbours are home to some of the world’s most famous classic yachts in the winter months. After all, these twin harbors are the staging grounds of one of the world’s most prestigious yachting events, Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta held this year April 16-21, 2009. It’s impossible to lose your way here; the two harborfront areas have only one primary street between them.
In Falmouth, walk the docks to admire the yachts, check out the Antigua Yacht Club and grab lunch. Past Falmouth, the road ends abruptly at historic Nelson’s Dockyard, which fringes English Harbour. Dating back to the 18th century, this piece of living history is the world’s only fully preserved Georgian Naval dockyard. Many buildings here are open to the public for self-or guided tours, including two small inns, a museum, the Galley Bar and the Galley Boutique, restaurants, a tiny bakery (behind the museum), post office and more.
A stop at A&F Sails will connect you to the sea again and is a good opportunity to peek at Franklin and his team of sail makers at work. Nearby is the Antigua base for Sun Yacht Charters and many other yacht related businesses catering to skippers of all strata. Many yachts call these harbors home, but most are passing through on a seasonal basis.
Shirley Heights, rising above the harbor area to the east, will treat you to one of the most panoramic views extant. Look for the ruins of a British fortress, and be sure to spot Montserrat and the legendary Soufriere volcano 30 miles south. Savor the view over lunch or a refreshing beverage in the small restaurant. If you’re lucky enough to be visiting at sunset on a Thursday or Sunday evening, stay for the party!
It’s an Antiguan tradition to celebrate sunset with a jammin’ reggae and rum barbeque. Another signifi cant area you won’t want to miss is the Dickenson Bay stretch just north of town. The seas here are glassy and framed by powdery white beaches, providing an idyllic setting for several sprawling resorts including Sandals.
Residents of Antigua generally avoid this area, as it has become a tourist mecca. But, in all fairness, the beaches there are fabulous and can tire you out with all the available water sports. A romantic little open-air restaurant, Coconut Grove, rests on the beach. You’ll want to stop here, even if it’s only for a tropical sip, or three.
You’ll have the sense that time stands still in Antigua. What you will take home with you is a sense of appreciation for a simpler life, splashed with more than a little natural beauty. Antigua is a place where there’s always time to smell the roses.
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